After walking about a mile in heels to meet a friend for lunch there recently, I was thrilled to find it quiet at noon and even more thrilled to see that the menu was filled with comfort food faves. We had a hard time choosing, but in the end Patricia went with the “family recipe” chicken matzoh ball soup to start, the Cobb salad on our waiter’s recommendation, and the warm apple crisp with vanilla ice cream. I chose the mushroom caps stuffed with pesto and drizzled with balsamic syrup, the porcini and pumpkin risotto, finishing off with the Bartlett pear sorbet accompanied by a salty oat cookie.

While a trifle salty for my taste, the chicken soup was pronounced delicious. The matzoh ball was the lightest I’ve ever had, but not particularly tasty and it got left behind after a few bites. Patricia fished it out and drank the rest of the chicken soup from the bowl, proving that you just can’t take some people anywhere. The mushroom caps were tasty- the basil pesto was fresh tasting, touched with parmesan for a slightly rich flavor.

Patricia’s salad was a Cobb salad, plain and simple. The mix of Boston lettuce, arugula and spinach added a bit of tang, but other than that it was a salad. She’d also considered the Waldorf with poached shrimp and one of our neighbors had ordered it- we found it amusing that the green apple, rather than being served in chunks, was shaved into a plentiful coiling mass over the dish.

The risotto presented an interesting issue. I don’t have what one might consider a wide experience of the stuff, so I was a bit disappointed to find it chewy and underdone, but I kept eating because the flavor of the creamy sauce, and the generous dappling of roasted pumpkin, was all so well seasoned that I was able to ignore the texture of the dish (especially the one, lone slimy mushroom). When our server, Mike, asked how it was, though, I said something.

The response was immediate, swift and impressive. Mike said he would go to the back and taste the risotto himself. After a moment J.R., the assistant manager, appeared to see what the deal was. She asked if I wanted anything else (asking if I was a vegetarian, which was nice of her), and I confessed that I actually was rather fond of the risotto. J.R. apologized, cleared my half-eaten dish away and reappeared with a fresh dish of risotto soon after. The second dish, while lacking in pumpkin, was studded with mushrooms and the risotto grains were more tender. Patricia, who hadn’t been sure what the problem was in the first place was impressed at the change as well. I was not charged for the first portion, though I had eaten more than half of it. The staff was happy to wrap the rest of the second portion.

Sous chef Jason Mousseau is also the pastry chef and I have to say I like his style: dessert was delicious all around. While the menu includes old faves (a brownie sundae and a carrot cake with a topping of pumpkin cheesecake) the real draw are the fruit and ice cream combinations. The ice cream and sorbet were ideally paired: the apple crisp hot, studded with currants and topped with streusel that wasn’t too sugary and a small but flavorful scoop of vanilla. The three scoops of pear sorbet came with a salty oat cookie that was not overly sweet and just crisp enough to complement the sorbet. Both had a lot of flavor and were enough to share.

Chef Daniel Bortnick buys his seafood and veggies locally and in that vein the cheese comes from Cowgirl Creamery (a California based concern that has an outpost near Chinatown in DC) and ice creams are commissioned from Dolcezza Gelateria in Georgetown. Mike told us that as a result many Firefly customers went to Dolcezza asking for their sweet potato ice cream- which Chef Mousseau pairs with a pecan-bourbon tart. Definitely worth a repeat visit there.

While our experience was positive overall, and I plan to go again for happy hour to sample one of their gemstone-themed cocktails, there is one thing that bothered me, and that is the inclusion of The Wedge as an appetizer. Chef Bortnick has created a menu that is truly special without being too fancy-schmancy (I look forward to trying the “Urban Picnic” at a later date) but a wedge of iceberg lettuce topped with blue cheese dressing is not only trendy right now but hardly worth the $8 price tag. That didn’t stop others from ordering it, though, so clearly I need to get with the program.

The restaurant is part of the Hotel Madera, located near Hotel St. George and the newly opened Hudson. The closest Metro is Dupont on the Red line, and it’s a good walk from Georgetown, which makes it the perfect stop off for lunch or dinner after a day of shopping.

Signature cocktails are $12, appetizers range from $3 devilled eggs to $8 Oysters Rockefeller. Lunches go from $12 sandwiches to a $20 steak. Dinners range from a $17 baby spinach and onion casserole to a $27 grilled 8oz steak and sides are available (including their famous truffle fries). Breakfasts range from $7 oatmeal to $19 steak and eggs. There’s something for every budget and taste as well as a full menu of beer and wine. Happy hour is Monday to Friday 5pm to 6pm.

Reservations recommended.

Firefly
1310 New Hampshire Avenue, NW
Washington, DC 20036

The word “organic” sends icky shivers up my spine.While it’s noble, indeed, to seek out vegetables, meat and eggs that were raised without being sullied by chemicals, etc., it’s expensive to eat like that all the time. The self-righteousness of places that do serve organic dishes can get on my nerves. Executive Chef Robert Weland makes the medium the message, by serving organic dishes so delicious that you’ll not only want to come back for more, but you’ll start thinking more about what you eat.

Poste, located near Chinatown in the heart of Washington, DC’s Gallery Place, is a work of art in itself from the moment you walk in the door. One entrance gives you a view of the atrium, a large glass and chrome structure, that you will not forget. High ceilings, funky Asian-inspired light fixtures and clean lines are the perfect setting for a drink or a meal at the main bar. Booths are stationed in front of the kitchen, where the pass through is large enough that you can see all that is going on. Even the kitchen is delightfully shiny and deco. Weland’s food is both beautiful and clean itself.

To start, we sampled the Backyard Heirloom Tomato Gazpacho with a perfect oval of Dijon mustard ice cream in the center. When stirred gently, the ice cream imparts the gazpacho with a delightful creaminess that somehow accentuates the freshness of the tomatoes, which taste like sun - slightly tangy and bright. We also indulged in the Garden Arugula Salad: a leafy concoction of arugula, basil, mind and marigold leaves studded with fresh figs, sheets of fresh shaved Parmesan and drizzled with an aged sherry vinaigrette that had me saying “Oh my God!” so many times that other patrons must have thought I was speaking in tongues. The combination of ingredients were a revelation - the mint and basil played nicely off of each other and the marigold leaves provided a gentle bite that was in keeping with the flavor of the Parmesan. The figs were something else entirely: beautiful, creamy, slightly sweet, heaven.

Thus far well pleased with the recommendations of our waiter (who also answered our questions politely and thoroughly) we moved onto entrees with barely disguised glee. My friend tried the Crispy Skin Tobago Snapper, a straightforward fish dish. Snapper has never been a favorite of mine, but one bite and I nearly wrenched the plate away from her. The cut of Snapper was served with champ potatoes (mashed) and topped with a red wine poached farm egg. It was served with caper beurre noisette, which apparently is a sauce, (My first thought was that my new favorite band, The Noisettes, must surely know this?) and garnished with plenty of fresh dill. I’ve never had fresh dill, and the farm egg poached in wine was inspiring. The fish was moist, with a mild flavor, and delicious.

My own entree was more than satisfying: Pan Roasted Organic Chicken with Buckwheat Crepes. Well, one crepe and it was stuffed full of chicken, gravy and vegetables and folded in quarters. The crepe was arranged next to the half chicken which was flanked by bright orange napoli carrots, flowery chanterelles, crispy snow peas and garnished with fresh rosemary. It was almost too beautiful to eat but a once that hurdle was overcome there was nothing but reward. The chicken was tender but not too moist. It was well-flavored with reduced pan juices and complemented nicely by the carrots and chanterelles.

At this point we could have walked out completely satisfied even though we had forgone the happy hour truffled frites, it was a marvelous meal. But there was still dessert to come. I’m a sucker for dessert. My friend had the Chocolate Pot de Creme with espresso, chili, milk jam and fresh cream. I went for the Bing Cherry Cobbler with Lemon Verbena ice cream. It was, I admit, the ice cream that did it for me. The Pot de Creme was delicious, however the espresso overpowered the chili and both flavors were so subtle it was like an arm wrestling match between two grandmothers. You really had to be patient for the taste to happen on your tongue. First the espresso hit, and then moments later the chili. It was a little weird, but if you like delayed taste gratification then I’d recommend it. The texture was pure velvet. Mine was good, but it wasn’t really cobbler, rather warmed cherries with sweet, gooey liquid and sprinkled with a bit of streusel topping. I will not say “canned pie filling” but I’m thinking it. The ice cream was divinely refreshing and creamy. Overall, not amazing, but a nice ending. Maybe that’s something that will even out in future. In the meantime, I’d just as soon indulge in a lavender martini, or something else from their amazing drinks list, and leave dessert out.

The restaurant is light and airy but yet has the feeling of an old-fashioned apothecary (an impression further sold by busboys in labcoats). The staff is helpful and overall the service is fantastic. Chef Weland graciously took a few minutes to talk to us, which was nice of him. Overall, a very good meal full of bright, fresh flavors and a wonderful experience.

Note: On Thursday Chef Weland hosts the “To Market, To Market Dinner” in which attendees accompany him shopping for organic ingredients, after which he cooks and serves a meal using said items all from local farms know for growing organic veggies, etc. The meal is served with biodynamic wines and comes to $65 per person. See the website for details.

Poste Brasserie is also open for breakfast, Monday through Friday, and brunch on Saturday and Sunday.

Restaurant Week can be a bit of a hit or miss proposition. Many restaurants are capable of great things, but either the idea of bargain hunter foodies is an irritation, or they just can’t handle the extra business. A visit to a local eatery featuring American bistro cuisine turned out to be dud- the entree was delicious, but both dessert and service were nondescript and just plain awful, respectively. Not so Oyamel.

When it first moved to the area, supplanting local favorite Andale, I was under the mistaken impression that this was Chef Jose Andres and the Restaurant Group opening the second in a chain, and my intrigue turned into annoyance. There are very few really good chains around, you see. I was very pleased to be set straight by a friend who, as an Oyamel fan and Joe Raffa groupie, informed me that we were lucky to have the one and only outpost relocated to our neck of the culinary woods. I scrambled to get a reservation and was rewarded by a 1pm spot on Thursday the 9th.

What bliss- from the brightly colored artwork, to the butterfly mobiles, to the handblown glassware used for hibiscus margaritas and ceviche alike, Oyamel is a warm, lively place that is absolute paradise- even on a 100+F day in the city.

Oyamel does its new visitors (and budget-minded diners) a service by putting an estimated 90% of their regular tapas offerings on the promotional menu, which allows dinners to pick 2 small dishes, dessert and softdrinks or iced tea. (While that doesn’t sound like a lot, we found 2 dishes apiece to be quite filling.) With so much to choose from, not only the expensive dishes that catch the eye- the mind immediately goes toward future visits.

My companion for lunch was my friend Jen, a vegetarian who eats fish as well. She ordered the red snapper Veracruz (Huachinango a la Veracruzana) and mushroom enchiladas (Enchiladas con hongos y queso fresco) wrapped in beet-colored tortillas, while I indulged in the crab and shrimp ceviche (Cóctel de camarón y jaiba) followed by a stuffed ancho chili (Chile de jaral con salsa de aguacate en frio).

For starters, these may be advertised as “small plates” but that’s all relative as the servings are a bit more substantial than your average tapas. The red snapper, a generous slab of moist, flavorful fish, was served over olives, onions, capers and tomatoes. While I like to order fish in places I can actually see the ocean, it was a pleasant surprise- very tasty and well-prepared. The ceviche was just the right blend of tartness and tang, the crab meat was delicately sweet and tender and the shrimp was delicious as well. Both were served in generous proportions and it was all I could do not to pick up my glass and not toss back the last drippings of tomato in search of the last shreds of seafood. I confess that Jen’s enchiladas escaped my notice- I was too busy with my second dish: a room-temperature roasted ancho chili stuffed with shredded beef, raisins and tomatoes and topped (not drizzled- so not drizzled) with a fresh avocado sauce. It was amazing- rich and savory, and because it was served at room temp the flavors of the meat, the chili and avocado (which had a light, fluffy consistency) complemented each other perfectly. I was glad Jen was a vegetarian because if she’d tried for a taste it might have gotten ugly. We managed to resist the lure of the housemade guacamole- which your server makes at tableside with a mortar and pestle. It’s a generous dish that could easily serve more than the advertized two people. The housemade chips, with a side of ancho-redolent salsa, were a nice side.

Since the horchata and other enticing drinks were not part of the special, we still had some room for dessert. Jen chose the Cajeta tradicional y moderna- a goat’s milk caramel garnished with crumbled Mexican shortbread, fresh mango and an egg-shaped scoop each of passion fruit and coconut sorbet. The caramel was not overly buttery, but delicious nonetheless. The sorbet was creamier than what I’ve had in past, the coconut was more subtle while the passionfruit was rich and juicy. The dish was sprinkled with caramelized cinnamon and fresh lime zest.

I went for the Café de Olla. I was expecting a sort of creme brulee, but was pleasantly surprised when the flower-shaped dish in front of me contained a small puddle of chocolate custard- laced with Chiapas coffee, infused with a Kahlua gelatin. Over that was generous sprinkling of crumbled chocolate cookies and almonds and to top it all off, a scoop of anise ice cream sprinkled with and brown piloncillo sugar (which I can only describe as “sweet” and “crunchy” and “pretty”). The ice cream had the same creamy texture as the sorbet with a hint of licorice- not a slight hint, and not enough to make you think of all-sorts candies, but enough to balance out the coffee and chocolate flavors of the custard. Both desserts were as beautiful to look at as they were a pleasure to eat.

The host was friendly and our server was efficient, glad to recommend certain dishes and, though we stuck to the Restaurant Week menu, seemed genuinely pleased that we had chosen Restaurant Week to make our first trip to Oyamel. Having had a taste of the fine service and delicious food, our appetites have been sufficiently whetted and we will be sure to go back - if every customer goes away as full and happy as we were, Oyamel’s participation in the event will pay off for them in spades in the coming months. Happily they are extending the promotion another week (which means we’ll be going back for dinner for sure!) which will give us a chance to try out the ceviche bar, the aguas frescas (”natural flavored waters”) and other treats.

Welcome to DC, Oyamel! Lucky, lucky us.

Located near the Gallery Place/Chinatown Metro (red line) or the Archives/Navy Memorial stop (green/yellow lines)

Oyamel
401 7th Street, NW
Washington, DC 20004
Call (202) 628-1005 for reservations (opentable.com is another good way to go)

Harry Potter mania is everywhere. It’s even in a delicious Virginia ice cream shop. In honor of the release of the final Harry Potter book at midnight tonight, Dairy Godmother will be serving “Dementor’s Kiss.” The flavor is “Blue Moon”- a Midwestern treat that defies description, according to Davis and her staff, sprinkled with moons and stars. The shop will also be serving pumpkin juice flavored treats and lightening bolt shaped cookies (free to those who show up in costume). Donations to the cauldron by the register will go to the Family Literacy Program, and all of the songs in the jukebox will have “magic” in the title. Want to discuss the book? You’re out of luck- The Dairy Godmother will be a “spoiler-free” zone all weekend.

So what is this Dairy Godmother? The Dairy Grandmother loves you and wants you to be happy, which is why she churns out delicious frozen custard that tastes delicious enough to please the inner child and colorful, refreshing sorbets in flavors the adult in you will love. And all have less fat, calories and cholesterol in a 5 oz. serving as compared to a 5 oz. serving of Ben & Jerry’s or Haagen Dazs. Even better, frozen custard has less air in it, so it’s creamy, dense and smoother than ice cream. However, since it is served at 26F (as compared to 10F for ice cream) that also means that if you plan to travel with your custard you should bring a cooler with you.

When you’re a kid, color is everything especially when it comes to ice cream. Mint must be green, bubblegum must be blue, banana must be a deeper shade of yellow than French vanilla, and strawberry has to be baby pink (as opposed to cherry vanilla, which is more of a blue-pink or mauve). But then you get older and color is less important than flavor. And fat content. Boo for adulthood!

Home to the former Del Ray Creamery, the Dairy Godmother is helmed by Liz Davis. Davis, a former pastry chef and erstwhile Wisconsin native, serves up custard and other treats served made in the Midwest way- vanilla and chocolate on a daily basis in addition to daily flavors and sorbets.

Before you go, check their flavor calendar- the flavor of the day changes every two days. In honor of some neighbors of Hawaiian descent whose kids graduated from the local high school- T.C. Williams- Davix created “Ho’omaika’i,” which debuted at the beginning of June. Ho’omaika’i means “Congratulations” and the flavor was a tempting mix of banana custard with macadamia nuts and chocolate shortbread. After that comes “Mozambique”- curious? Go to the website, click on Flavor Forecast link, then let your cursor hover over the flavors with blue underlines and you’ll get a short description of that day’s dessert.

They also serve sundaes (including the “Door Cherry Sour” with sour cherries and housemade marshmallows), shakes, rootbeer floats (they sell Wisconsin-made bottled sodas as well) and other treats like lavender shortbread and homemade dog biscuits. Give them 24 hours notice and they’ll make you a cake featuring the day’s flavor. The sorbets are seasonal flavors- raspberry is a staple, but I’ve tasted apricot ginger, West Indian lime, lemon lavender, pomegranate, and pineapple with cilantro. She also makes flavors infused with sangria and Riesling as well as strawberry rubarb and Thai coconut among others. Call ahead to get an idea of the selection.

On our first visit, the flavor was strawberry and they were making shortcake parfaits with vanilla custard and strawberries. The strawberry custard was fresh, delicious and summer sun kissed- a good as the fresh strawberries we used to pick in Ruskin, Florida, every year when we were kids. A sampling of sorbets revealed the pomegranate to be delicately flavored and only slightly tart, and apricot ginger to have a pleasing tangy bite. On a later visit I took a pint each of Khulfi custard and Rosehip Hibiscus sorbet to a friend’s house- after an hour in an insulated bag during the drive to College Park, Maryland, both pints needed to go in the freezer for a few minutes, but tasted wonderful. On another visit we sampled Davis’s version of meerwasser- a German word meaning “seawater” and a refreshing drink of lime sorbet in ginger ale, which is Davis’s own favorite drink. Dairy Godmother also sells ginger ale and other bottled sodas from the Midwest. The ginger ale has a spicy flavor that is delicious with citrus. Upcoming flavors include lemon blueberry, peppermint stick and peach.

There is also a lovely selection of baked goods, including lemon lavender cookies, shorbread with chocolate chips, gingersnaps and the like. For the pups there are biscuits as well. Take away pints are available and kid’s cones are a perfect size to try if you just want a little something.

The Dairy Godmother
2310 Mount Vernon Avenue
Alexandria, VA 22301
(703) 683-7767

Located in DC’s historic Union Station, B. Smith’s dining room (a favored haunt of local “movers and shakers” according to her website) is large, airy and full of light- the website describes it as “grand Beaux Arts” but what simply comes to mind is the Palace at Versailles without the mirrors.There are subdued celebrations going on around us- birthdays, graduations, etc. We sit with our backs to the front of the station, where cabs and Duck Tour buses go by soundlessly, and feel like we’re in another world.

If you’re visiting, B. Smith’s is a great place to have a meal before hopping on Amtrak or a Duck Boat. Weekends at B. Smith’s are a good indicator of what you can find on the menu the rest of the week- a melange of the aforementioned Southern fusion and typical Sunday fare- Saturday is a la cart and Sunday is a buffet ($30).

A word of advice- Just because the menu offers “typical” brunch fare, don’t waste your time, or tastebuds, on “typical” at B. Smith’s. Skip the “Belgium” waffle and the steak and eggs, and indulge in something a little spicier. And if prices for entrees seem intimidating at $17 to $28, be assured you can make a good meal out of one or two appetizers- three if you’re feeling generous enough to share. We weren’t. Also, while there is a preponderance of meat (specifically anything on a pig) and seafood, there are some vegetarian dishes that are worth trying.

The gumbo ($10), lumped in with soups and salads, is an easy meal. I won’t pretend that every Louisiana native will love the taste, but the generous mix of scallops, crawfish and scallops swim in a spicy roux that embodies the zing most of us expect from Cajun cooking. The menu says the dish is based around “an Asian broth” but I didn’t taste “Asian”, so maybe that ambition to be all things falls through here. All in all it’s a successful dish- on its own it’s tasty and enough for a meal, especially when paired with the bread basket of mini corn muffins that come to the table as soon as you sit down. If you can restrain yourself they are a perfect addition to all dishes.

The appetizer section of the menu also boasts decent portions and reasonable prices. We passed on the Catfish Fingers ($9) because they made us think of the kiddie menu at Long John Silver’s, and went right for the Fried Green Tomatoes ($9) - ignoring the mental image of Kathy Bates wrapped in Saran wrap. The tomatoes were baked with creamy ricotta and garnished with red pepper coulis and served right from the pan. They were firm and tasty with a crunchy breaded coating that clung to each bite rather than sliding off in a soggy mess.

The Jambalaya ($11) came next- the combo of tasso, “country ham”, Andouille sausage, bacon, chicken and shrimp served over rice is rich and meaty. The salty tasso serves as a complement to the mild flavor of the chicken and shrimp and the roux had enough spice to make us reach for our water glass before it evaporated off the tongue. The Cajun Red Beans and Rice ($9) with ham hocks, tasso, pulled pork, sausage and bacon, was a little too much pig for even our heartiest taster (funny, but the menu description says nothing about beans, or rice). The Shrimp, Sausage and Cheese Grits ($15) served with a tasso ham gravy is a dish worthy of a repeat visit.

The entrees are a bit of a snooze aside from Chef Rock’s specialty. Dubbed “Swamp Thang” ($25), the dish includes shrimp, scallops and crawfish cooked in Dijon cream and served with “southern style greens.” Personally I can’t get my head around the idea of “a mustard-based seafood sauce,” but it was quite tasty all the same. The scallops were fork tender (a surprising number of establishments like to cook them until they are rubbery) and the greens were slightly crisp and very flavorful. The other entrees are ribs, vegetarian ribs (unfortunately we didn’t have a vegetarian among us to render a verdict), catfish, and a Maryland surf ‘n turf- fried chicken and a crab cake.

The desserts are nondescript aside from the Bourbon Street Bread Pudding ($6?) served with bourbon cream and ice cream on request. The person who ordered it warned us he would not be sharing, however he was betrayed by our server, who plunked down extra spoons for sharing.

Saturday is a la carte, while Sunday’s buffet brunch includes a grit and oatmeal bar and a plethora of Southern treats as well as made to order waffles and omelets and unlimited orange juice, champagne or mimosas for $30 for adults and $15 for kids. B. Smith’s is a great way to start a morning of site seeing or wrap up a business trip.

B. Smith’s
50 Massachusetts Avenue, NE
Washington, DC 20002
Phone: (202) 289-6188
Fax: (202) 289-6199

Reservations recommended.

An “inn” is usually defined as “a restaurant or tavern, with lodgings, catering to travelers” and each successive owner of the Inn has explored the dichotomy between fine dining and public house. Opened in 1931 as a post-Prohibition era gin joint, the Inn went on to become Otto’s Grill from ‘44 to ‘64. In the 80’s it was Trav’s- a roadhouse beer joint that attracted lawyers and tattooed bikers alike. In ‘84 a local mechanic was killed in a fight in the sideyard and soon after Trav’s was shut down. In ‘86 the inn was reopened as an upscale restaurant- The Inn at Glen Echo. I ate there before my senior prom in ‘89 and my parents, long time residents of the area, went for anniversaries and birthdays.

On New Year’s Eve 2003 the inn reopened again as The Irish Inn at Glen Echo, combining the idea of a tavern and restaurant to great effect. To the left of the foyer is the pub, with its own menu, dark wood booths and live music on Sundays and Mondays. To the right, an open and airy diningroom with an upstairs, butter yellow walls and an outdoor section that is much in demand on clear days in the spring and summer. While the setting is harmonious, however, the menu isn’t yet.

 If you choose the pub side you’ll be transported to Eire with its Irish barman and waitstaff. The selection of libations which includes Irish Mist Draft beer means all the greats: Guinness, Smithwicks, Harp, Boddingtons, Miller Lite for the calorie-conscious, and a tasting size of 3. Everything is $6 except the Miller Lite ($5). There’s also a decent selection of bottled beers- Magner’s Irish Cider ($5) tops the list, the rest are, sadly, domestic. There’s also a fine selection of whiskeys (natch) including the ever popular Irish Mist, which is great to sip on the rocks.

The pub menu is where things start to get dicey. Priced from $9 to $15, the dishes are a largely traditional Irish but there are a few trendy dishes that you’d do well in general to avoid. The Fried Calamari with ancho chili sauce or the Yellowfin BLT diminish the rest of the menu by their very presence. You’d be better off with the Shepherd’s Skins, a new twist on Shepherd’s Pie, which is not too outlandish- potato skins filled with shepherd’s pie and laced with applewood smoked bacon. The Bangers (sausages to us Yanks) that come with the Bangers and Mash are flavorful, taut-skinned and juicy. The Fish and Chips gave me flashbacks to my days at Oxford- not as greasy, but the fish is sufficiently crisped on the outside and not overly breaded, its mild flavor fully intact (we had to ask repeatedly for the malt vinegar though). You can also find the more traditional Ham and Cabbage or Braised Short Ribs with a side of creamy mac’n'cheese. The burgers- black Angus- come topped with Dublin cheddar or as a “Kildare melt” topped with Irish ham, roasted tomatoes, carmelized onions and a smear of Guinness spiked mustard and are a perfect complement to a pint of Smithwicks or whatever your pull-draft pleasure. Portions are generous.

The restaurant is a pleasant 180 degree spin with a menu of lighter fare starting with appetizers ranging from $7 to $15 in price. Aside from some very passable salads, there’s the ever popular Potato Leek Soup, which is a molten puree sprinkled with fresh cut chives and topped with a drizzle of truffle essence. The appetizers are mostly seafood- a nod not only to the Irish but to Maryland where seafood is popular and bountiful. Seared Scallops are tender and soaked in a Magner’s vinegarette with a side of slightly oversalted ham braised cabbage. The Smoked Salmon Carpaccio, while frou frou sounding in the extreme, is house smoked and served simply with a tomato and cucumber salad. And of course you can indulge in the chef’s choice of a half-dozen raw oysters.

Then come the entrees ($12 to $15 for sandwiches, $19 to $32 for main courses) and again the diningroom has the same problem as the pub: the overall feeling that Chef Ross Vandiver is trying to balance noveau with traditional and isn’t sure what works. On one hand you have the pub favorites including the Jameson Steak, so named for the slathering of Jameson mustard sauce, but on the other the Softshell Crab Sandwich, which does not need chili remoulade, but good old fashioned mayo and malt vinegar.

Again, you’re better off sticking to selections such as the “low-country favorite” Shrimp and Grits. We tried the 1/2 Rack of Lamb glazed with garden mint sauce and accompanied by fresh beans and carrots and found that the lamb was cooked perfectly (the bones snapped in our fingers), although we weren’t sure why it was breaded on the outside. We had similar luck with the prime rib, but while it was delicious it was nothing special. We passed over the “Broiled Swai- a white flaked fish similar to grouper” and stuffed with crab salad because we’d never heard of “swai” and weren’t feeling brave (at least not brave enough to spend $26 for the entree). The vegetarian in the group enjoyed the Goat Cheese Stuffed Sea Shells (not really seashells, of course) with carmelized onions and fresh mozzarella and didn’t want to share. We weren’t sure what to make of the appellation “Free Range Chicken & Sausage” because we’d never seen free range sausage, but since the sausage was Italian and not Irish, we decided to skip it.

The desserts ($6 to $9) were another hit-or-miss proposition. The ubiquitous molten chocolate cake came studded with sour cherries and served with a scoop of housemade vanilla (or housemade coffee Guinness for those of us feeling more adventurous). The Guinness-infused bread pudding, though a little overly boozy, was a hit on one occasion but a bit much on another. The universal favorite was the Cheese Plate, which included samples of Cashel Blue and Porter with crackers and a bit of fruit. And for those who just wanted a bit of something sweet without the silverware, Bailey’s over ice sufficed.

The wine list includes selections from all over the world, but unlike the faux worldliness of the menu, this is a good thing. Standouts include American wines- a sauvignon blanc from Chateau St. Michelle (WA), a pinot from Cycles Gladiator (CA), and a chardonnay from Sonoma Cutrer-Russian River Ranches (also CA). Wines are available by the bottle ($26-$90) or the glass ($8-$12) and the menu includes white and red blends as well as varietals.

Afternoon tea is also available- $8.95 for a traditional tea of scones, jam, cream and tea or $18.95 for the “full tier” including sandwiches and pastries.

The Inn is nestled into a copse beside what used to be the front of Glen Echo park. It’s perfect for lunch before exploring the park or Clara Barton’s House, or a quiet dinner if you’ve had enough of Georgetown and downtown DC. There is a bus stop nearby, but you’re better off driving. Valet parking is available and you’d do well to get there early- the pub fills up and the restaurant is popular on clear evenings. Reservations are highly recommended.

The Irish Inn at Glen Echo
6119 Tulane Avenue
Glen Echo, MD 20812

For reservations, call (301) 229-6600

Mezza Luna (named for a crescent shaped pasta- or a scary looking kitchen knife with two handles and curved blade) is a little Italian bistro that opened in the Dupont Circle area of Washington DC about a year ago. My dear friend CD knew the owner and had been talking it up for ages, so we finally got our act together and went with a group of her lawyer friends to try a tasting, which the chef, Marco, puts together every few months to liven up the menu.

There were about 24 of us, so after a few drinks and mingling we claimed three tables in the empty restaurant/bar. Our bunch got a booth, which was cozy and in the back in a section set back from the rest of the dining area. The restaurant is done up in soft blues and whites. Murals of the sea and other artwork (mostly local artists) do a lot to contribute to the oceanic theme. Behind me on the wall was a wrought iron sculpture of a ship. I made sure it was firmly attached to the wall before I sat down.

The tapas consisted mostly of seafood dishes and fresh vegetables. After putting down baskets of sliced ciabata and something that looked like fried bread sticks with a creamy garlic sauce for dipping, the parade began.

There was beef carpaccio topped with a a sparky spinach and mesculin salad, fresh tuna and cannellini beans in a red pepper tortilla, a tomato and mozzarella salad (the tomatoes were a bit pale, but it was still delicious), skewered chicken chunks wrapped in bacon and served over a creamy mushroom risotto, tender gnocchi, and duck ragout. There were also several kinds of mezzaluna style ravioli with cheese, mushroom and beef fillings. The pasta was al dente and each filling was flavorful and worth stabbing a table mate with a fork for to get another bite.

The entree was a toughie- I wanted the Chilean Sea Bass, but my wallet said, “Um, no sweetie. Not this time.” So I had the Papardella Ponte Vecchio: wide noodles with a ragout of rabbit.

My only complaint is that I was once again seated behind a bowl o’ food- it looked like something I threw together in a saucepan and tossed into a dish, which is anathema to someone who likes a well-presented plate. That said, the chunks of rabbit were deliciously sauteed in a touch of garlic and browned butter, sprinkled with fresh Parmesan and devoured with pleasure.

After that came the dessert promenade. After it made the rounds of the table, I laid claim to a smooth, molded, dark chocolate mousse topped with shredded coconut and reclining in a sea of orange sauce and garnished with orange slices.

There was also a milky panna cotta garnished with balsamic soaked strawberries and sliced almonds- the subtle sweetness of the panna cotta played well with the balsamic vinegar. Other desserts included a petit baba rum topped with cream, a plate of almond-studded biscotti and a tasty but wholly unremarkable tiramisu (delicious, but it’s been done). Sharing desserts is the way to go so that you don’t miss anything.

It was an amazing meal. So amazing that when they announced that they had split the bar bill equally among us (darn those hard drinkin’ lawyers) I did not bat an eye. Well, there was a little batting, but thems the breaks.

Call ahead- this place has become very popular! Open for lunch and dinner, with a daily happy hour from 4 to 7pm. Close to Farragut North Station on the red line.

The Eastern Market, a local farmer’s market and flea market in the heart of Capital Hill, is last remaining original public market in Washington, DC. Opened in 1873, it was built by local architect Adolph Cuss, who also designed several area schools. But last month on April 30, the South Hall was gutted by fire. Fortunately, there was no one in the building at the time so there were no injuries. Nonetheless, newspaper accounts say that the estimated damage to this place, an important piece of Washington DC history, is $5-$10 million.
Unbowed, local residents have forged ahead. When the annual Market Day festival was recently held, it appeared folks were out in full force to show support for the vendors. I didn’t join the line waiting to see the damage for themselves, but instead went looking for the t-shirts being sold in support of Eastern Market renovations. You can find them here.

Last spring was the first time I visited the Eastern Market, despite having lived in the Washington, DC metro area for most of my life. A friend of mine suggested we grab our cameras and check it out, and we did. I fell in love with the place.

As the unofficial town center of Capital Hill in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, the market kept folks from fleeing the area and attracted new residents, acting as an anchor of sorts by providing a civic gathering place. When developers began leaving the area in the 20’s and grocery stores became more popular, civic groups and local residents stepped in to protect the market. Various organizations have been formed over the years to manage leasing and most recently the Eastern Market Joint Venture has been hired to take over.

Clustered around the brick warehouses known as the South and North Hall is the farmers market. The vendors come from Maryland and Virginia farms with tables full of fresh fruits and veggies, offering plates of sliced tomato, strawberries and cukes among other delicacies. A list of vendors can be found here. The folks from Claymont Farm are especially nice. There are also tables full of locally made jewelry and handicrafts including handbags crafted from books or brightly colored canvas, pottery and other items. We’re suckers for homemade soap and usually make a beeline for Chris Thigpen’s Epicurean Soap Company table.The North Hall houses more arts and crafts- clothing, art created by local school children and other artists. The South Hall includes a flower shop, a cheese place, a deli with amazing sandwiches, a sweet shop, fresh Maryland seafood, meat and poultry and so on. Its popularity is such that I know folks who troop into Eastern Market from all parts of DC just to purchase such niceties as baguettes, cheese and flowers.

Across the street is a fenced in lot where you can find a flea market full of treasures just waiting to be discovered. My friend Jen and her boyfriend, who are fixing up a house, lusted after the Asian antique furnishings and I found a ’60s Pyrex bowl to match the set in my mother’s kitchen. There are also used books, gently used handbags (and new ones), original jewelry designs, vintage everything (posters, clothing, etc.) and a cookbooks. So many cookbooks!

The surrounding area is also a foodie’s dream, especially in spring and summer when outdoor seating is quite popular. Tunnicliff’s Tavern serves better than average pub fare and a delicious brunch. Bread and Chocolate is a coffee shop with Old World flair featuring a selection of delicious fresh baked goods, coffee (natch), brunch, sandwiches and dinner selections. Monmarte is a bit pricier, but the menu is pure Parisian bliss. There’s also a Murky Coffee location, which some reviewers claim has the best barristas in the city.

If you are in the area, it’s definitely worth a visit. Just off Pennsylvania Avenue, the Market is open every day except Monday and is located across from the Eastern Market Metro Station, on the blue and orange lines. There’s also parking, but it’s limited.

Eastern Market
7th and C Streets SE
Washington, DC

First photo is the Eastern Market, 7th and C Sts., SE, 1889, courtesy of the Historical Society of Washington, DC

For example, we like our pizza topped with steak, our drinks in Reidel glasses and our bananas flaming. Which is why we go to Chinatown and head for Matchbox Pizza.

Matchbox, a welcome addition to the Washingtonian’s Cheap Eats roster, is steps away from the Chinatown Metro. Located around the corner from Zengo (which is known for delicious mojitos and is on my list) it’s a door down from Capitol Q, but it’s worlds away in terms of atmosphere. The pizzeria bills itself as a vintage pizza bistro and with its dark wood and authentic wood-fired masonery ovens it does Pizza Paradiso several better by offering a wide selection of truly tasty martinis, featuring house infused liquors, and a variety of bistro dishes. The prices are more than reasonable- most are $7-$18 with the exceptions being a $19 yellowfin entree, a $21 rockfish, and a $25 filet mignon.

The menu is fantastic- there’s so much to choose from, even if you’re not in a pizza mood. After sharing the small size portion of their simple salad (which included greens, tomatoes, dried cherries crisped Parmesan and a balsamic dressing), we sampled the grilled chicken and portabella stack, the blackened chicken sandwich with gorgonzola and roasted red peppers (which came with a side of waffle cut fries) and the bistro burger. The burger was a chunk of grilled Angus with gorgonzola, cremini mushrooms and applewood smoked bacon. There are also sliders (aka hamburgers for folks with commitment issues) which can be ordered in batches of 3, 6 or 9 and come with spiral cut fries. The fries I can pass on, but the sandwiches were impressive. All are served on either a toasted brioche or ciabatta roll and while there are only two choices of cheese, both are perfect complements to the filling, whether you go with the mild gruyere or tangy gorgonzola.

Next we went for pizza. The crust is what most places would call hand tossed but any similarities end with the name. Matchbox crust is a foundation for the toppings, so don’t worry about filling up on puffy end pieces. We chose to sample the pepperoni pie, a sausage and onion pie, the “fire&smoke”, and the flat-iron steak with carmelized onions, mushrooms, gruyere cream and banana peppers.

The pepperoni was delicious- nothing fancy, it features double pepperoni, a “zesty” sauce and mozzarella. The sausage and onion was a little more hefty with Italian sausage, sweet onion and the ubiquitous roasted red pepper that you see in almost every dish. The “fire&smoke” pizza would easily please the fussy vegetarian (there’s one in every group) or heat seeker. It features fire roasted red peppers, sweet onions, chipotle tomato sauce, smoked gouda and fresh basil- the menu says “very spicy” and we were not disappointed. The gouda, a unique choice for a pizza, lends the “smoke” to the name. The flat-iron steak pizza was by far the best surprise- the flavorful meat was so tender that it was not unlike biting into a firm banana, and the banana peppers had a slight bite. The gruyere cream base is unique and delicate. Very tasty. You can also put together your own creation. My advice is ask your server what’s good so you don’t end up disappointed- the staff has sampled the food and is knowledgeable about combinations that will please your palate.

Matchbox has a good bar and an excellent martini list. We got there early to take advantage of the happy hour specials, but were surprised to learn that we were unable to get the same prices on the same drinks table-side. At the beginning of the meal folks were scrambling downstairs to order their drinks and bring them back up to the table. We tried the Watermelon Tease (featuring watermelon infused vodka) and the Ginger Snap (pineapple infused rum and ginger syrup), but the hands down favorite was the Matchbox Punch. In addiction to coming in a pint glass, it’s fruity and very easy to drink. It contains a variety of the house-infused vodkas, in addition to pineapple and orange juices, a bit of sour mix and grenadine. Not sure what to order? The drinks menu is divvied up into the Top Ten, Girlie, Manly and House drinks.

Meanwhile, the desserts at Matchbox are fairly, well, unremarkable. There was the ubiquitous molten chocolate cake and a bread pudding that is tasty, but if you’ve had a good meal (and you will) you won’t have room.

Pizzas are available in a small 6-slice or large 8-slice size. They are also available for takeout. Should you prefer to eat in reservations are recommended, but only available for parties of 8+. There is a good beer selection that ranges from boutique to cheap.

DC folks may not be styling, but we treat our very adult tastebuds right.

Seriously, the two slices I had were not what I was hoping for when I bought my plane tickets- visions of Limoncello and Easter dinner dancing in my head. The one in Venice was a puffy, drippy mess than was vaguely reminiscent of the cafeteria squares from elementary school and the second, from Naples no less, was a thin, soggy rag that made me wish I could speak Italian so I could say “GIMME MY MONEY BACK!”

Worse, I ate each after one of my marathon walking and siteseeing days, so rather than being discerning and putting some thought into where to eat that day, I was just hungry and merely appreciative of the nutrients I was putting into my stomach. That is definitely the wrong way to eat in Italy, where food is fresh and savory and people linger over meals as they tease the tastebuds.

Luckily, for those of us in the D.C. area who have foggy or traumatic pizza memories, there’s Pizza Paradiso. Located in Georgetown and Dupont, Pizza Paradiso purports to have the best pizza in the area. And they certainly deliver on that promise.

On a Saturday night, usually the craziest of the week, we met for an early dinner at the Georgetown location. Seated in the main dining room we were faced with the one thing that every young, trendy diner dreads- we were early. As in “earlybird special” early. Rather than go away and come back later to wait indefinitely, we settled in, advising our waiter that we were planning to savor our meal, and perused the menu.

The bar area flanked by a wood-fired oven at the back of the restaurant, decorated with a cartoon of a sun around the mouth of the oven, brightly lit and the main dining area has a wonderful view of passersby. On a summer evening it is quite pleasant as they have the windows open so you can enjoy a slight breeze with your cocktails, which we did.

Starting with a white sangria, we went for the focaccia and elephant (roasted) garlic to be followed with a simple insalata mixta and a pizza to be named later. AH, not a fan of olives as evidenced by the tapenade fiasco, left me to pick at the selection of kalamatas and others, and picked a veggie pizza while I looked at the beer list.

The Georgetown location boasts a beer pub in the basement with a vast selection of imported ales on tap and in bottles that will have you pledging to return until you’ve sampled them all. It is run by a lovely young man(ager) named Thor who decided that a beer pub was necessary due to his great affection for the hoppy stuff. Thor knows his brew- there’s no denying that the pizza is the real star and the beer is a very good supporting player. Or rather a supporting cast of thousands, if you ever get a look at their beer menu. Seating is limited, so if you’re hosting out of town guests or want to get some friends together, get there early.

I was on a mission- I adore AH, but it pains me that she has a taste for watery lager when she could broaden her horizons with something sweet and girly from the tap downstairs. Our waiter, after hearing her criteria for good beer, brought a number of selections which I ended up finishing for her- the Duchesse was appealing in small doses, the Piraate was not even considered with its dark color, the Hennepin was not sweet enough, and the Ballotin Nora (a fruity concoction with apricots and vanilla notes) was not sample-able, with a bottle for two being $16.

Sigh. I tried- hic!

The garlic and infused olive oil were well complemented by the tart vinegarette on the salad, which was basically a mountain of fresh greens. I like roasted garlic. The mellow flavor and soft texture are appealing because you feel like you are experiencing the entire vegetable; it’s not just an aggressive taste or an overpowering scent that repulses vampires and significant others. Love the garlic. It’s good for you.

I picked the amber Boont while AH went for something foo-foo (I tried, darnit!) and we dove into the pizza. Delicious. Crisp crust ringed with shards of burnt onion. I’m not usually a huge bread person, but I dipped the ends in the infused oil and went to town. Good stuff. The veggies were fresh, just this side of crunchy, and the cheese was more of an accent than a blanket- can you see it? No? Perfect.

If you’re shopping on the DC waterfront and you love beer, the Georgetown location is your best bet. There’s parking at the waterfront lot, but be advised- street parking can be a real pain. A few metro stops away is the Dupont Circle location, which doesn’t have the pub, but is close to a host of decent bars and clubs, not to mention Metro stops if you need to get home after a long night. Check their website for special dining events and promotions through local microbreweries such as Dogfish Head.

Pizza Paradiso