Well Fed On the Town

At the end of October 2007, a unique and fun wine bar opened in the Hell’s Kitchen section of New York City. Xai Xai (pronounced shy-shy) is a genuine treat for New World wine lovers and those interested in sampling South African food. The first of its kind, Xai Xai is the only bar and restaurant within Manhattan to focus exclusively on South African cuisine and drinks.

Having just returned from a visit to South Africa, I anxiously visited Xai Xai for a taste of authenticity right at home in New York City. I enjoyed a delightful experience of fine wine and food, further enhanced by the excitement my South African dining partner expressed at being able to order his favorite “native” dishes at a restaurant in New York City.

Xai Xai’s is an elegant and rustic meeting place housed in a small spot that was previously a laundromat. Two exposed brick walls join with a warm, stuccoed third and the remaining face is the window-filled front. The eighteen or so small dark-wood tables are complemented by wooden beams on the ceiling and the four impressive cypress columns flanking the center dining and entry space. The dim light of the candles and hanging lamps enhances the color and texture of the wood as well as the slate floor. The space is utilized incredibly efficiently, wine racks hang from two of the walls and the bar doubles as the kitchen (because of the space limitations, the food is prepared elsewhere in advance, cooked and heated on site).

The wine list offers 76 South African wines, 48 of which are available by the glass and 6 of which are organic. The list is arranged by grape variety and offers something for everyone. My dining partner and I sampled a wonderful range and paired each with a different small plate of food. We started with The Foundry 2006 Viognier ($15/glass, $42/bottle). Just 100 cases of this wine are produced annually in the Stellenbosch area of South Africa. It is a slightly dry wine with a bit of fruitiness (apricot mainly) and a touch of sweetness. It makes a perfect partner to the Pumpkin Fritters ($7). These pan-fried cakelets were absolutely scrumptious. They were delicate and warm cushions of spiced pumpkin garnished with cinnamon sugar. We were so pleased with them that after promptly devouring them we ordered a second plate immediately!

Being a fan of curry, we opted for what seemed perhaps the most healthy option on the small menu — Cape Malay Curry Fish ($12). The deep water line fish was prepared in a light variation of the curry attributed to the Cape Malay South African’s (a melting pot of slave cultures from Africa, the Middle East, Asia and Europe). Be warned, the menu neglects to mention this is a cold dish. This was not among my favorites (and I adore Cape Malay curry), though it was highly palatable. According to my South African dining partner, it is a dish traditionally served cold and the taste was in tune to what he remembers from back home. To me though, it lacked a certain flare and bite that I’ve come to associate with the Cape Malay style of cuisine. Alongside the curry we enjoyed the Van Loveron Gewurztraminer ($14/glass). This very light, mildly sweet wine was a nice pairing for this fish. It did not have the heavy, syrupy body associated with many Gewurztraminers.

Next we snacked on Biltong ($8). These thin slices of dry-cured meat were difficult to stop munching on! I believe the salt component of the curing makes them akin to popcorn and potato chips (albeit healthier) in that once the palate gets a taste, more is immediately desired. In South Africa, biltong is made from many kinds of meat, including game. Xai Xai’s biltong is made of beef. While I envision biltong better partnered with a more casual drink such as beer, it was fine alongside the delicious Rudi Schultz 2004 Syrah (only available by the bottle $78). The knowledgeable South African waiter suggested this wine in place of the Boschendal we had our eyes on. It was a superbly delicious selection with low tannins, mild fruit and spice. This wine is surely among the best South African reds I’ve sampled.

Our final savory dish was the Pap & Boerewors with “Soweto Sauce” ($15). The Bowerewors was a thin (approx 1.5cm), generous length of sausage, served with a stewed tomato gravy and maize “Pap”, better described as a cake of creamy, fine corn grits. This dish was superb! The sausage was such a perfect consistency, with a fine balance between the meat and spices. It was especially delicious to enjoy the sausage with the pap and tomato all at once. We cleaned the plate and competed for the final bite. This dish was perfect for the Rudi Schultz we were already enjoying.

For dessert we ordered the Malva Pudding ($8), a delicious, warm dish that reminded me of the insides of a fruit cobbler. The consistency is somewhere between a cake and a pudding. The spongy cake-like portion arrives floating in a little cream which it quickly absorbs. It was warm, sweet and drippy-delicious! The 4″ dish is served with a demi-size spoons, perfect for small tastes. Alongside this tasty treat we enjoyed two dessert wines, which were served in sleek champagne style glasses that were only an 1″ at their widest point. First was an organic selection, Heaven on Earth ($10/glass, $42/bottle) from the Western Cape. It had a dark honey color, was immediately sweet on the tongue and had a flavor that lingered. It was well-balanced and not at all overpowering. Our next choice was the Paul Clover Reisling which carried the body of a sauternes. It wasn’t quite as smooth as the Heaven on Earth, though it wasn’t any less enjoyable. Both dessert wines were fine selections and perfect for the Malva Pudding.

I cannot recommend Xai Xai enough, though I’m also a bit tempted to keep it a secret! This place is sure to catch on fast and the attention will be well deserved. We were there early on a Saturday night and the place was already bustling.

Xai Xai
365 West 51st, off 9th Avenue
New York, NY 10018
212-541-9241
Open Sun-Thurs 5pm-Midnight; Fri-Sat 5pm-2am

Image property of Xai Xai