Well Fed On the Town

Enigmatic isn’t a word often utilized to describe a restaurant, yet, I cannot think of a better descriptive for Cava Bistro, a cozy restaurant situated in downtown Houston, Texas. Unlike most, it isn’t entirely clear what type of cuisine this restaurant means to be serving. More than one local recommendation deems the country elegant Cava Bistro as French. Even the restaurant’s own website mentions “classic French cuisine”, yet when dining there the menu is clearly continental. When inquiring to both the waitress and manager as to the discrepancy, both are surprised by the French misconception and define the cuisine as “American”. I wonder how the cuisine of a restaurant could cause such consternation.

Setting the cuisine conundrum aside, I take a moment to breath in the surroundings and pleasing ambiance. Dim lights accented by the glow of beaded lamp shades and stained glass sconces set the tone for a relaxing and romantic meal. The warmth is further enhanced by the cement tiled, vaulted ceiling which hovers over the tables like the arms of a relative. Apropos for the incredibly friendly and attentive service the restaurant treats its patrons with. It immediately strikes me that this restaurant is different from the rest, in their efforts to make the patrons feel like honored guests. The staff is happy and warm and the general manager is making his rounds to each table. The restaurant is bustling and the instantly superb quality of service makes this reviewer want to write a good review for this restaurant.

The walls are lined with wine and the abundant list presents interesting and affordable New World options. Jeff Verberg, the restaurant’s hospitable general manager offers insight into many of their offerings and produces an excellent recommendation for one wine which is not on the list, a 2005 Californian Petite Petit from Michael David. This wine, which I believe is a special edition, is nothing short of delicious. It is a very smooth, palate pleasing wine with fruit and spice overtones; a perfect accompaniment to the various appetizers I choose to make my meal from.

The Baked Brie appetizer ($8.95) provides great enticement. It is a beautiful presentation of almond crusted brie spiced with garlic, rested atop a plate of fresh arugula and accented with strawberries and raspberry sauce. While the presentation deserves accolades, I find the flavor to be mild and a bit ho-hum. The strawberries and raspberry provide a sweet touch, though the lingering taste is savory and leaves the palate longing for something more. My dining partner is less than satisfied with that end and requests a side dish of honey, an addition that makes a world of difference. The sweetness makes the flavors ‘pop’ and this dish that I would otherwise consider to be average, instantly becomes phenomenal. We devour it, enjoying each honey sweetened bite. Jeff, the general manager catches on to our trick and excitedly promises to serve it to the chef that way as an experiment.

Next I sample the Spinach Salad ($8.95), a pleasant blend of warm spinach, prosciutto ham, shaved parmesan cheese, cherry tomatoes dressed in roasted Granny Smith apple vinaigrette. The mix of flavors is elegant. This is a wonderful salad for the fall season.

Being curious about the diversity of the menu, I decide to try the Wild Mushroom Spring Rolls ($6.96). Since spring rolls are not French, nor American I’m wondering if there is an extraordinary reason they made it onto the menu. The experience is a bit disappointing. On first bite I think of them as “salad rolls” since the contents and taste are overwhelmingly green. It isn’t until the roll falls to pieces on my plate that I am able to identify the mushrooms. Sampling with a few less greens the flavor is quite nice. It’s just a shame the chef chose not to make the mushrooms the dominant ingredient as the title suggests.

Cava Bistro’s entrée selection is large and spans the traditional selections of seafood, pasta, poultry, pork and red meat. It’s a selection that offers something for everyone. While I don’t take time to sample the main courses, I do find a moment for dessert. After all, how can one refuse the house specialty of Dark Chocolate Mousse Crepes ($5.95)?

Sadly, the crepes are not on par tonight. They arrive to the table cold, as if pre-made, refrigerated and re-heated for serving. The crepes are inconsistent, mainly too thick where it matters most with too strong a flour taste. Impressively, the staff catches sight of my disappointment and immediately whisks the plate away and has them re-done. The second attempt is much better. This time the crepes are paper thin, though still a bit too cool. Even so, they provide a nice touch to end the meal with.

While Cava Bistro doesn’t hit the mark where and when a restaurant reviewer wants, it is a restaurant that deserves a second and third try for the amount of passion they exhibit and the consideration they treat their patrons with. Put simply, Cava Bistro is a restaurant with a lot of heart and decent food. It should be entered with an empty stomach and an optimistic attitude. While the food may not be ‘fantastic’, Cava Bistro is a restaurant that can easily become a neighborhood standard. I truly believe that where they are currently weak, they will one day become strong. Even without fantastic fare, I fell in love with Cava Bistro.

Cava Bistro
301 Main Street
Houston, TX.
(713) 223-4068

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