Well Fed On the Town

It isn’t often that a chain restaurant lures me in, but the new Houlihan’s restaurant in Danbury, Connecticut has done just that. Think you know Houlihan’s and that all are the same? Think again. This is a far cry from the Houlihan’s of my youth.

Immediately upon stepping in the front doors the difference becomes apparent. The ambiance is cool and sophisticated. The flow of patrons eases carefully to the front pew of hostesses and diverges to the restaurant at left or large bar area at right. While the restaurant is filled with wooden and green vinyl booths, they aren’t the clunky ones I expect, they are a bit sleek and edgy. The ambiance is enhanced by contemporary etched glass panels and an assemblage of hanging linen lamps which act as a master chandelier in the main dining area. The colors are earthy, burnt umber walls with lime-green accents.

As I take a seat with my three-year old daughter and her grandparents, I feel completely at ease and excited. This family dining experience is going to be special. A bit of ambiance without the fret of the mess my daughter might make or the noises that may cause other diners to cringe. This is after all a chain restaurant and one that regardless of its cool and sophisticated feel welcomes patrons of all sizes, the small ones such as my daughter are as prevalent as the rest.

We order a starter of Spinach Dip with Lavosh ($9.25). Sort of a flat bread pizza, the lavosh is topped with tomatoes, pepperjack cheese and cilantro. Even my daughter is thrilled with the taste of dipping the lavosh into the garlic-spinach dip that accompanies it. Large enough for a group of up to six, this starter is a hit. Next we enjoy the Tuna Wontons ($7.95, pictured) a beautifully presented long plate of seared rare tuna wrapped in wonton and drizzled with sweet soy. Served with chopsticks and wasabi mayo this long plate is a crowd pleaser. The tuna has been perfectly prepared with a beautiful center resembling red wine and a taste as smooth as butter.

The menu at Houlihan’s is extensive, offering something for everyone be it a small flavor packed starter or a main plate of pasta, meat or poultry. On this day we decide to test the Stuffed Chicken Breast ($15.95); Grilled Rosemary Chicken ($12.95) and the Tillamook Burger ($11.95).

The Stuffed Chicken Breast is a great dish capable of pleasing most diners, including my three year old daughter. It is breaded and baked to a crisp golden brown finish. While a touch of oil in the breading first deters me and causes me to question whether the dish was actually fried rather than baked, the moist and properly cooked interior sparks my taste buds to life. The tender meat blended with garlic herb cream cheese melts in my mouth, leaving a fulfilling, lingering flavor. It is served with red bliss mashed potatoes and string beans. While the chicken and potatoes are delicious, the string beans are a soggy example of something healthy gone astray. They are so heavily coated in butter and cream that I wonder if there is a single nutrient that hasn’t been smothered by fat.

The Grilled Rosemary Chicken is a delicious dish. The perfectly cooked chicken is infused with rosemary, so intensely so that I wonder if rosemary oil or essence has been used in addition to the fresh herbs visible. It is served with a side of red bliss mashed potatoes and string beans that have, at least for this plate, been treated properly with just a hint of butter. This is a hearty meal perfect for the cool days that are nearly upon us.

The Tillamook Burger, on the other hand, is just average. Figuring Houlihan’s should be a great stop for a casual burger, my father decides to try this variety, which comes topped with Tillamook Cheddar (aged 9 months), smoked bacon, vine ripe tomatoes and sweet red onions. The end result is a “just okay” experience. The burger sounds far more delicious in its description than it is in reality. While the burger is cooked properly, the flavors and presentation are flat.

A sweet ending to this meal is only appropriate and Houlihan’s is kind enough to offer dessert samplers. Given the option of any three mini desserts ($9.95) or any five ($15.95) we opt for three and vow to clean the plates. Our selections are Creme Brulee, Strawberry Cheesecake and Triple Berry Cobbler, though an error in the kitchen returns to us Grilled Smores in place of the Strawberry Cheesecake. Instead of sending it back, we decide to give the Smores a taste, figuring it might be a fun experience. But instead of being fun, it’s a sweet and sticky mess. It’s the make-your-own variety and as I work to smear the marshmallow and Hershey’s syrup style chocolate onto a graham cracker I find myself wondering “why am I preparing my own dessert in this restaurant?” After all, isn’t that what I’m paying them to do? Hmmm. Luckily, the Creme Brulee and Triple Berry Cobbler are delicious enough to distract my attention from that particularly messy flaw.

All in all, our dining experience at Houlihan’s was a good one. While I don’t expect the next experience will be flawless, I do recognize it for what it is, a great casual dining experience in a slightly sophisticated atmosphere.

Houlihan’s Restaurant
5 Eagle Road
Danbury, Connecticut
(203) 730-2108

Open Mon-Thurs. 11 until 1am, Fri-Sat 11 until 2am and Sun. 11 until 12am. Visit Houlihans.com for more details.