Well Fed On the Town

The Irish Inn at Glen Echo is an interesting example of food and history intertwining to create a unique dining experience. Located on the outskirts of Glen Echo Park- formerly a Chautauqua retreat and amusement park before becoming the arts center it is today- and a short walk away from the Clara Barton House, the inn has attracted clientele from Potomac, Bethesda, Washington DC and surrounding environs in its many incarnations.

An “inn” is usually defined as “a restaurant or tavern, with lodgings, catering to travelers” and each successive owner of the Inn has explored the dichotomy between fine dining and public house. Opened in 1931 as a post-Prohibition era gin joint, the Inn went on to become Otto’s Grill from ‘44 to ‘64. In the 80’s it was Trav’s- a roadhouse beer joint that attracted lawyers and tattooed bikers alike. In ‘84 a local mechanic was killed in a fight in the sideyard and soon after Trav’s was shut down. In ‘86 the inn was reopened as an upscale restaurant- The Inn at Glen Echo. I ate there before my senior prom in ‘89 and my parents, long time residents of the area, went for anniversaries and birthdays.

On New Year’s Eve 2003 the inn reopened again as The Irish Inn at Glen Echo, combining the idea of a tavern and restaurant to great effect. To the left of the foyer is the pub, with its own menu, dark wood booths and live music on Sundays and Mondays. To the right, an open and airy diningroom with an upstairs, butter yellow walls and an outdoor section that is much in demand on clear days in the spring and summer. While the setting is harmonious, however, the menu isn’t yet.

 If you choose the pub side you’ll be transported to Eire with its Irish barman and waitstaff. The selection of libations which includes Irish Mist Draft beer means all the greats: Guinness, Smithwicks, Harp, Boddingtons, Miller Lite for the calorie-conscious, and a tasting size of 3. Everything is $6 except the Miller Lite ($5). There’s also a decent selection of bottled beers- Magner’s Irish Cider ($5) tops the list, the rest are, sadly, domestic. There’s also a fine selection of whiskeys (natch) including the ever popular Irish Mist, which is great to sip on the rocks.

The pub menu is where things start to get dicey. Priced from $9 to $15, the dishes are a largely traditional Irish but there are a few trendy dishes that you’d do well in general to avoid. The Fried Calamari with ancho chili sauce or the Yellowfin BLT diminish the rest of the menu by their very presence. You’d be better off with the Shepherd’s Skins, a new twist on Shepherd’s Pie, which is not too outlandish- potato skins filled with shepherd’s pie and laced with applewood smoked bacon. The Bangers (sausages to us Yanks) that come with the Bangers and Mash are flavorful, taut-skinned and juicy. The Fish and Chips gave me flashbacks to my days at Oxford- not as greasy, but the fish is sufficiently crisped on the outside and not overly breaded, its mild flavor fully intact (we had to ask repeatedly for the malt vinegar though). You can also find the more traditional Ham and Cabbage or Braised Short Ribs with a side of creamy mac’n'cheese. The burgers- black Angus- come topped with Dublin cheddar or as a “Kildare melt” topped with Irish ham, roasted tomatoes, carmelized onions and a smear of Guinness spiked mustard and are a perfect complement to a pint of Smithwicks or whatever your pull-draft pleasure. Portions are generous.

The restaurant is a pleasant 180 degree spin with a menu of lighter fare starting with appetizers ranging from $7 to $15 in price. Aside from some very passable salads, there’s the ever popular Potato Leek Soup, which is a molten puree sprinkled with fresh cut chives and topped with a drizzle of truffle essence. The appetizers are mostly seafood- a nod not only to the Irish but to Maryland where seafood is popular and bountiful. Seared Scallops are tender and soaked in a Magner’s vinegarette with a side of slightly oversalted ham braised cabbage. The Smoked Salmon Carpaccio, while frou frou sounding in the extreme, is house smoked and served simply with a tomato and cucumber salad. And of course you can indulge in the chef’s choice of a half-dozen raw oysters.

Then come the entrees ($12 to $15 for sandwiches, $19 to $32 for main courses) and again the diningroom has the same problem as the pub: the overall feeling that Chef Ross Vandiver is trying to balance noveau with traditional and isn’t sure what works. On one hand you have the pub favorites including the Jameson Steak, so named for the slathering of Jameson mustard sauce, but on the other the Softshell Crab Sandwich, which does not need chili remoulade, but good old fashioned mayo and malt vinegar.

Again, you’re better off sticking to selections such as the “low-country favorite” Shrimp and Grits. We tried the 1/2 Rack of Lamb glazed with garden mint sauce and accompanied by fresh beans and carrots and found that the lamb was cooked perfectly (the bones snapped in our fingers), although we weren’t sure why it was breaded on the outside. We had similar luck with the prime rib, but while it was delicious it was nothing special. We passed over the “Broiled Swai- a white flaked fish similar to grouper” and stuffed with crab salad because we’d never heard of “swai” and weren’t feeling brave (at least not brave enough to spend $26 for the entree). The vegetarian in the group enjoyed the Goat Cheese Stuffed Sea Shells (not really seashells, of course) with carmelized onions and fresh mozzarella and didn’t want to share. We weren’t sure what to make of the appellation “Free Range Chicken & Sausage” because we’d never seen free range sausage, but since the sausage was Italian and not Irish, we decided to skip it.

The desserts ($6 to $9) were another hit-or-miss proposition. The ubiquitous molten chocolate cake came studded with sour cherries and served with a scoop of housemade vanilla (or housemade coffee Guinness for those of us feeling more adventurous). The Guinness-infused bread pudding, though a little overly boozy, was a hit on one occasion but a bit much on another. The universal favorite was the Cheese Plate, which included samples of Cashel Blue and Porter with crackers and a bit of fruit. And for those who just wanted a bit of something sweet without the silverware, Bailey’s over ice sufficed.

The wine list includes selections from all over the world, but unlike the faux worldliness of the menu, this is a good thing. Standouts include American wines- a sauvignon blanc from Chateau St. Michelle (WA), a pinot from Cycles Gladiator (CA), and a chardonnay from Sonoma Cutrer-Russian River Ranches (also CA). Wines are available by the bottle ($26-$90) or the glass ($8-$12) and the menu includes white and red blends as well as varietals.

Afternoon tea is also available- $8.95 for a traditional tea of scones, jam, cream and tea or $18.95 for the “full tier” including sandwiches and pastries.

The Inn is nestled into a copse beside what used to be the front of Glen Echo park. It’s perfect for lunch before exploring the park or Clara Barton’s House, or a quiet dinner if you’ve had enough of Georgetown and downtown DC. There is a bus stop nearby, but you’re better off driving. Valet parking is available and you’d do well to get there early- the pub fills up and the restaurant is popular on clear evenings. Reservations are highly recommended.

The Irish Inn at Glen Echo
6119 Tulane Avenue
Glen Echo, MD 20812

For reservations, call (301) 229-6600