Well Fed On the Town

The Eastern Market, a local farmer’s market and flea market in the heart of Capital Hill, is last remaining original public market in Washington, DC. Opened in 1873, it was built by local architect Adolph Cuss, who also designed several area schools. But last month on April 30, the South Hall was gutted by fire. Fortunately, there was no one in the building at the time so there were no injuries. Nonetheless, newspaper accounts say that the estimated damage to this place, an important piece of Washington DC history, is $5-$10 million.
Unbowed, local residents have forged ahead. When the annual Market Day festival was recently held, it appeared folks were out in full force to show support for the vendors. I didn’t join the line waiting to see the damage for themselves, but instead went looking for the t-shirts being sold in support of Eastern Market renovations. You can find them here.

Last spring was the first time I visited the Eastern Market, despite having lived in the Washington, DC metro area for most of my life. A friend of mine suggested we grab our cameras and check it out, and we did. I fell in love with the place.

As the unofficial town center of Capital Hill in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, the market kept folks from fleeing the area and attracted new residents, acting as an anchor of sorts by providing a civic gathering place. When developers began leaving the area in the 20’s and grocery stores became more popular, civic groups and local residents stepped in to protect the market. Various organizations have been formed over the years to manage leasing and most recently the Eastern Market Joint Venture has been hired to take over.

Clustered around the brick warehouses known as the South and North Hall is the farmers market. The vendors come from Maryland and Virginia farms with tables full of fresh fruits and veggies, offering plates of sliced tomato, strawberries and cukes among other delicacies. A list of vendors can be found here. The folks from Claymont Farm are especially nice. There are also tables full of locally made jewelry and handicrafts including handbags crafted from books or brightly colored canvas, pottery and other items. We’re suckers for homemade soap and usually make a beeline for Chris Thigpen’s Epicurean Soap Company table.The North Hall houses more arts and crafts- clothing, art created by local school children and other artists. The South Hall includes a flower shop, a cheese place, a deli with amazing sandwiches, a sweet shop, fresh Maryland seafood, meat and poultry and so on. Its popularity is such that I know folks who troop into Eastern Market from all parts of DC just to purchase such niceties as baguettes, cheese and flowers.

Across the street is a fenced in lot where you can find a flea market full of treasures just waiting to be discovered. My friend Jen and her boyfriend, who are fixing up a house, lusted after the Asian antique furnishings and I found a ’60s Pyrex bowl to match the set in my mother’s kitchen. There are also used books, gently used handbags (and new ones), original jewelry designs, vintage everything (posters, clothing, etc.) and a cookbooks. So many cookbooks!

The surrounding area is also a foodie’s dream, especially in spring and summer when outdoor seating is quite popular. Tunnicliff’s Tavern serves better than average pub fare and a delicious brunch. Bread and Chocolate is a coffee shop with Old World flair featuring a selection of delicious fresh baked goods, coffee (natch), brunch, sandwiches and dinner selections. Monmarte is a bit pricier, but the menu is pure Parisian bliss. There’s also a Murky Coffee location, which some reviewers claim has the best barristas in the city.

If you are in the area, it’s definitely worth a visit. Just off Pennsylvania Avenue, the Market is open every day except Monday and is located across from the Eastern Market Metro Station, on the blue and orange lines. There’s also parking, but it’s limited.

Eastern Market
7th and C Streets SE
Washington, DC

First photo is the Eastern Market, 7th and C Sts., SE, 1889, courtesy of the Historical Society of Washington, DC