Well Fed On the Town

You would be hard pressed to find dining with a grander backdrop than The Grand Tier Restaurant, as the name insists. In its prime location on the Metropolitan Opera’s second floor, the entry’s mammoth staircase is fit for royalty. Diners overlook the Met’s stunning interior on one side and Lincoln Center’s Josie Robertson Plaza and fountain in the other direction. In December the Plaza’s Christmas Tree glows with blue snowflakes and as the weather warms, the majesty of the central fountain seemingly dances just for you. Equally impressive is dining between two stunning Marc Chagall murals while fellow opera-goers look on with magnetic envy from the balconies above.

At a recent evening at the Opera we passed up the usual brownie and champagne at intermission for a more formal meal at The Grand Tier.

There is nothing that can spoil an evening like sitting through a long performance (or intermission) in hunger. Head chef Martin Burge understands this quandary and caters to it perfectly. His specialty is seafood and glancing the stunning plates that surrounded us we sat with anticipation. Presentation takes center stage with entrées embellished to impress without overshadowing your evening’s main attraction– the opera.

There were three of us on this particular evening and we were looking for something light. Our waiter recommended the San Daniel Prociutto appetizer paired with a selection of sushi and sashimi. It was enough variety to satiate all stomachs and unique flavorings to appease all palates. The spicy tuna-mango-avocado roll was by far the most interesting roll we had. A symphony of sweet mango balanced a delicate wasabi finish. The sashimi was delightfully fresh and fatty, melting once it hit the tongue.

The highlight was the Prociutto plate. Dry-aged and served with a savory rosemary olive oil, cantaloupe, pistachios and a thick smoky balsamic vinegar. It is interesting to note that we received cantaloupe though the menu highlights grilled figs instead. Perhaps the kitchen was out of figs and a sudden substitute was made. Still, I cannot help but wonder how the figs would have favored the dish differently. On the other hand, good balsamic vinegar can make or break a dish—in a different setting I might have licked what remained clean off the plate.

We returned during the second intermission to find our desserts already set at our reserved table. Espressos on the way, we could not help but begin to eat. After all, at this performance the second intermission was a mere ten minutes (compared to twenty minutes given for the first). The Opera Cake was tiered to grand heights like the Met itself. It was a nutty and rich expression of its namesake. A cinnamon and green apple sorbet “soup” (no longer on the menu) was a light treat. It was a perfect palate cleanser to what we all agreed was the pinnacle of the dessert offerings: the Pistachio Tartufo.

I rarely order Tartufo when it appears on a menu. It often takes the form of what I recognize as a frozen chocolate Sunday: an ice cream ball coated in a chocolate shell. It is because I would rather indulge in a dessert experience, instead of a mere sweet ending, that I would order this one again. The “pistachio ice cream bombe” was enormous and full of fresh nuts, a splendid contrast to the citrus tang of Cara Cara Orange pool, instead of the chocolate that usually surrounds the dish. Like the balsamic vinegar, we tilted the bowl for every last drop. My simple request is that this dessert is never removed from the menu.

A standard menu heavy on seafood is available, but my suggestion is to stay on the lighter side when eating at The Grand Tier. While the food is fabulous one must remember that when dining during an intermission speed is key. One cannot enjoy a carefree meal in this opulent setting without being hard-pressed to make curtain (and fitting in a bathroom break). Be warned to keep beverage orders to one glass, or else that one-hour second act might find you writhing in your seat. The same warning is extended to a heavy meal.

As expected, this extraordinary setting comes with a price. First courses range from $15-$20 and entrees will set you back $30-$40, desserts are all set around $15. Wines by the glass are priced between $14 for a Nappa Chardonnay up to $25 for a Taittinger Brut Champagne.

In the past only Met Opera ticket holders were able to indulge in the scenic and tasteful pleasures of The Grand Tier Restaurant. Starting this season, hours of operation, menus and attendance were expanded. Now all Lincoln Center performance ticket holders can enjoy dinner, a light meal or an elegant dessert in the majestic Metropolitan Opera. Restaurant Director Fred Mills suggests those with tickets outside the Opera join them for a more relaxing pre-theater meal, or be warned you could miss a curtain call. Met ticket holders wishing to dine during intermission are advised to place orders before the evening’s performance to ensure meals will be served promptly once seated at the table.

Despite the elements of speed dining, this restaurant receives my Bravo!

The Grand Tier Restaurant is located on the Metropolitan Opera’s second floor. The restaurant opens at 6pm. Call for reservations, 212.799.3400