New Orleans Show Down in NYC
“Hey Mario! Thanks for the ride over here today!” It was John Besh yelling over the crowd to Mario Batali. Even after an Iron Chef showdown in which John Besh upset Pig Master Batali, the two seem to remain on good speaking terms.
Batali shuffled his neon orange clogs over to Besh, pushing me aside, so the two could embrace. I was just about to compliment Besh on the New Orleans Table event I was now attending and his Trout Pontchartrain (sautéed and served with a brown butter hollandaise). Instead, images of Batali on his Vespa with Besh grasping his waistline flickered into my mind and all attempt at conversation was lost (recent sightings dish up Batali and Rachael Ray zipping around New York City on the Vespa as well).
The event, The New Orleans Table, sponsored by Paul McIlhenny (aka Mr. Tabasco) and The Southern Foodways Alliance, was an Iron Chef showdown of New Orleans food in its own right, held October 12 in New York City. Present and cooking for the cause were Zak Pelaccio (who hosted the event at his 5 Ninth restaurant), and the above mentioned Besh (who would dish up his own as well as the specialties of Gail and Anthony Uglesich and Leah Chase). Mr. Batali, not cooking, dropped in to say hello and quickly bowed out.
The event was held to honor and remember classic New Orleans food and drink. To return and recollect and featured New Orleans Eats, An Oral History Project*. All were welcome to participate and record their New Orleans food stories, be it their first Jambalaya to their last Po’ Boy, to be archived for later use. In between buttery bites of Barbecue Oysters (Ugleshich), thick Gumbo Z’Herbs with Filé and topped with Slow Roasted Pork (Leah Chase) and the savory Shrimp and Pork Belly Gumbo with Organic Grits (Pelaccio), it was difficult to get a word in with anyone, microphone or human.
In the wake of Hurricanes Katrina and Rita, the displaced of New Orleans are finally making their way back home. While they do, they are leaving a memorable trail for us, southerners and non- to appreciate and learn from. Many are happy to return the favor– the glowing Alice Waters was present, offering me her wisdom on The Edible Schoolyard project. Rumor has it she is providing knowledge to a similar New Orleans project to ensure the culinary traditions of southern cooking are where they belong, with the locals.
In between sips of Sazeracs and the pleasantly sweet Ramos Gin Fizzes I made new friends and wished the night would never end– And it hasn’t necessarily. For all those lucky golden babies, it’s heading westward to San Francisco on November 29th. If you can’t make it out to California, the Southern Foodways Alliance is happy to record your food memory, just give them a visit.
*To participate in the Oral History Project, go to The Southern Foodways Alliance and follow links and phone numbers to be a part of history and offer up your own stories.
